Where to Eat, Stay, and Play at NYC's Rockaway Beach in Queens (2024)

New York City might not be known for its beaches, but when the sweltering summer heat sets in, many locals head to the ocean. One of the best places to spend a warm day is Rockaway Beach, on a narrow peninsula at the southeastern end of Queens. Something about the Rockaways just hits the sweet spot: It's easily accessible by subway; the beach is totally free, spacious, and clean; and the laid-back crowd is a perfectly chill mix of beach bums, families, hipsters, and surfers.

As a self-proclaimed Rockaway early adopter (I've been riding the A train out to this beach haven for more than a decade — yes, even when I lived two hours away in the far reaches of the Upper West Side), I've seen it survive the devastation of Hurricane Sandy in 2012, then bounce back and grow into the vibrant community it is today. I've spent years preaching the Rockaway gospel to anyone who would listen, and the word continues to spread about this unlikely urban beach town. With more restaurants and shops popping up each year to add to the appeal, this once humble surf spot has become a summer destination in its own right.

Head there on your next free weekend, whether you're a longtime New Yorker or just in town for a visit. You'll be won over by the good vibes, the tight-knit community, and how incredible it is to walk off the subway and immediately feel the difference in the ocean air. If you aren't already, you'll be a Rockaway convert soon enough. Below is the ultimate guide to spending a day (or more) at Rockaway Beach.

Things to Do at Rockaway Beach

Go to the beach!

This long stretch of clean, soft sand has something for everyone. Hit 67th Street if you're looking for good surf, a chill vibe (there are no concessions on the beach, though there are several a block inland), or a little more space between you and your neighbors on the sand. Because of the waves here, beach patrol often restricts swimming at this end, but you can typically go in for a quick dip unbothered. Even if you have zero interest in getting in the water, this is a great area to marvel at other people catching waves.

Head to the beach around 90th to 98th streets for more of a scene, but expect crowds on summer weekends. Here you'll find eateries right on the boardwalk, as well as Rockaway mainstay Rippers, a seasonal open-air bar that often has live tunes.

The beach at 105th to 116th streets is quieter, often uncrowded, and good for families: there's a paid parking lot by 116th Street if you're arriving with a lot of gear.

Take surf lessons.

Surfing put Rockaway Beach on the map and still makes up a large part of its singular culture. This is the perfect place for beginners to learn, as the forgiving waves never get too big or too rough (avoid going out during storms, of course).

Various companies offer surf (and SUP and skateboard) lessons at Rockaway, but Locals Surf School, founded by lifelong neighborhood residents Mike Reinhardt and Mike Kololyan, is one of the oldest and most beloved. Operating out of black tents on the beach at 67th Street, they offer group and private lessons year-round. Under the guidance of the enthusiastic and patient instructors, even first-timers have a chance to catch a wave.

Check out the shops.

Locals Surf founders Reinhardt and Kololyan also opened a coffee shop called Locals Collective, which makes great espresso drinks, breakfast sandwiches, and açaí bowls to fuel up for a surf sesh or vegging on the sand. Pick up a logo T-shirt or sweatshirt so you can rep Rockaway back in the city.

Breakwater Surf Co. and Station RBNY also rent boards and wetsuits if you're a bit more seasoned and want to catch some waves on your own. Both shops sell swimsuits and apparel from surf and skateboard brands.

Pop into Zingara Vintage for an array of previously loved treasures from books to board games, parasols to purses, and a highly curated selection of clothing from the '50s, '60s, and '70s. Owner Erin Silvers also magically transforms old terry cloth robes into stylish bikinis and miniskirts and sells them at pop-ups at businesses in Rockaway and around New York.

Stroll the boardwalk.

Get your steps in on the boardwalk, a pleasant place for a long stroll — all 5.5 miles of it — coupled with great people-watching. Make a pit stop at the 91st Street skate park to watch locals trying tricks in the bowls and half-pipes.

Where to Eat at Rockaway Beach

Rockaway Beach Bakery

For coffee and a quick bite before hitting the sand, Rockaway Beach Bakery is a local favorite. Pastry chef Tracy Obolsky's fresh danishes, loaves, scones, muffins, and cookies (the list goes on...) are some of the best I've had anywhere in the city. For breakfast, how does one choose between the flaky ham and Swiss everything croissant, the stacked smoked salmon croissant-wich, and the biscuit stuffed with bacon, cheese, and a gooey fried egg? Just come back to try them all.

Boardwalk Bagel & Delicatessen

Though bagel bloat might not sound like the best way to start off a beach day, I'd be remiss not to include this great deli — and hey, you're in New York. Bagels on a weekend morning are religion, bathing suit or not. Like any New Yorker, I take my bagel recommendations seriously, and Boardwalk makes one fine hand-rolled, boiled, and then baked breakfast delight: a perfectly crisp shell with a chewy, doughy interior.

Boardwalk Eateries

If you find yourself peckish even after a generously portioned breakfast sandwich, the boardwalk eateries will keep you from getting hangry before making the pilgrimage to Tacoway (see below). At 106th Street, you'll find an outpost of Caracas Arepas Bar that does the famous East Village eatery justice with its Venezuelan stuffed corn-cake sandwiches. At the 97th Street concessions stands, Edible Island serves light, fresh poke bowls and Red Hook Lobster Pound satiates the lobster roll craving that inevitably comes with being by the ocean. The previously mentioned Rippers, near 90th Street, grills up surprisingly good burgers, hot dogs, and fries, and the frozen sangria hits the spot after hours in the sun.

Tacoway Beach

There is no better place for post-beach nourishment than Tacoway Beach, and there is no better order than the lightly battered whitefish tacos with pickled veggies and guac. (Vegan and chorizo options are available as well.) Tacoway can get crowded on weekends, but it's a small price to pay for the best fish tacos in New York City.

This iconic Rockaway taco shack started in a humble sidewalk location in 2008, arguably kicking off the burgeoning food scene in the Rockaways. It now has a much bigger home in the yard adjacent to Rockaway Beach Surf Club, with long communal tables and a space for bands to play. Purchase drinks at the club to wash down the tacos and elote, and look for local artists' work on display. The club also hosts an annual Women's Surf Film Festival to celebrate Rockaway's surf-meets-urban culture.

Rockaway Brewing Company

It was only a matter of time before craft beer found a home in Rockaway. Rockaway Brewing Company was started by locals home-brewing in their backyards so "they'd have something to sip on after a day of surfing," according to the website. The brewery boasts an expansive taproom and front yard with plenty of spots to sit down and throw back a few cold ones after a day at the beach. It also hosts food residencies and pop-ups (tacos, pizza, burgers, and brats), and live music on weekends.

Super Burrito

It's hard to say whether there's a better beach meal than burritos. They're self-contained, easy to eat, don't require silverware, and just feel right when eaten by the ocean. The ones at Super Burrito are jam-packed with tasty, quality ingredients, and could likely feed a small family. Don't sleep on the excellent shrimp burrito if it's on the menu that day. If you don't trust your ability to eat a burrito on the beach without wearing some of it, visit the indoor spot on the 69th Street strip, which has a fun retro interior.

Uma's

Uzbek food doesn't generally spring to mind as beach cuisine, yet here we are. Stop at Rockaway institution Uma's for dinner before heading home — it's the perfect place to try this Central Asian cuisine. Start off with the baked patties (bichaki) and dumplings (manti) filled with delicately seasoned meats and vegetables, or refreshing salads with dill, feta, and yogurt. The classic beet borscht and a traditional Uzbek rice dish called plov are also must-tries.

Whit's End

Although it looks like a punk-rock record store from the outside and a hunting lodge-meets-dive bar on the inside, Whit's End is a local favorite for dinner. Irreverent chef/owner Whitney Ayco*ck makes the area's best wood-fired pizzas, with interesting flavor combos to boot (pork belly, peaches, and hot honey is one such invention). The fresh seafood dishes rotate and Ayco*ck butchers his own daily catches. The venue also hosts a variety of live entertainment: bands, magic and burlesque shows, and DJ sets.

Where to Stay in Rockaway Beach

The Rockaway Hotel

Rockaway was sorely lacking in accommodations until the chic Rockaway Hotel opened in 2020. With a sparkling pool surrounded by loungers and cabanas, a leafy rooftop bar where DJs spin sunset sessions, daily fitness classes, and gorgeous, airy design throughout, this truly feels like a beach resort getaway. The impeccable and attentive service adds to the blissed-out feeling of being on a vacation — even if you're just a subway ride away from home.

When the beach gets a bit too windy (as it often does in the afternoons at Rockaway) or you're ready for co*cktail hour, the pool deck is the perfect place to while away the afternoon. Afterward, grab a seat at the beautiful wood-paneled bar at the hotel's restaurant Margie's and enjoy a seafood tower of fresh oysters, snow crab claws, and lobster tail.

Airbnb

With the Rockaways' growing popularity comes a growing inventory of accommodations available to rent on Airbnb, from a room in an artsy beach house to a two-bedroom townhouse with ocean views. The Arverne community, on the eastern end of the beach, has condos with fenced-in yards perfect for post-beach grilling and chilling, and some even boast roof decks. Here you'll have easy access to the surfing beach and a huge Stop & Shop supermarket (a true luxury for New York City dwellers) to stock up on provisions.

How to Get There

By Subway

Hop on the A train to Far Rockaway and ride it directly to Beach 67th Street — and you're there! Or get off at Beach Channel station and stay on the platform to wait for the S shuttle train that will bring you to Beach 90th, 98th, 105th, or 116th streets. The A trains that go all the way to Far Rockaway run roughly every 20 minutes or longer, so make sure you're boarding the right train.

By Ferry

A ferry to Rockaway runs from Pier 11/Wall Street in the Financial District, stops at the Brooklyn Army Terminal in Sunset Park, then goes to Beach 108th Street in Rockaway, giving you a mini tour of the New York City coastline and some lovely ocean breezes on your way down to the beach. It takes about an hour and capacity is limited, so on busy weekend days, you might have to wait for more than one ferry to board.

By Car

If you drive, try to get there early in the day on summer weekends. Street parking, which is free, can be tough to come by, as it's used by area residents.

If riding a coach bus with cold drinks of the alcoholic variety sounds appealing, recruit some friends and take the OvR Rockaway Beach Bus, with pickups in SoHo and Williamsburg.